Korea: Gwangjang lights

It's been some time since I dedicated an actual post in and of itself to my time in South Korea, and after unearthing a treasure trove of photos I hadn't even gotten to processing yet, I dove in deep and found lots of material worthy of sharing on this here blog, so if you've been missing the Korea posts you're in luck. I seem to have a propensity towards taking few photos early in my time abroad, whether it was my move to Japan (where I also made a conscious decision to go without a cell phone for the first 6 months, which contributed to that lack of photos) or during the move to Korea... towards the end of my stays, though, the finality of it starts to seep in and I find myself growing more frenetic in my efforts to snap visual reminders of the experience for conservation, like the mad dash to check off the bucket-list when an impending sense of mortality settles in sometime around middle age. Memory is a tricky and fickle thing, so I always find it far preferable to try to capture things in a very literal photographic sense, trying to seal a singular moment in time in pixel form for eternal preservation. 

And I have to admit, there's something surreal about Seoul at night, especially looking back through the haze of nostalgia. Maybe it's all the glittering neon and LED lights fiercely defying the creeping darkness, or the billowing plumes of steam tumbling from the nearest damp place, whether it's a steaming pan of tteokbokkie at a street side food stand or a manhole cover concealing subterranean secrets. I hope these photos can convey a bit of that sense to you, the reader. Whether it's the perplexing button configuration on the elevator I rode, day in, day out, or the color-changing tunnels at Gwangjang market. It's all a bit sci-fi, isn't it? Or maybe that's just me, getting lost in the uncanny valley. Neon, after all, reminds me a bit of home, the bedazzled Las Vegas strip beaming away at night like an angler fish trying to lure in prey. Maybe Seoul has more in common with home than I thought...  

Seoul: Gwangjang at night part two

Like some panel out of a dystopian sci-fi movie, Gwangjang market glistens and glows in the evening light with its surreal neon lights defying the darkness. You could easily miss it if you were driving past on the busy roadway out front, but if you're out on foot it'd be hard to miss the scents and steams billowing off the market through all its hours of operation. Not only is the market a bustling oasis of tasty things surrounded by the wholesale fashion and textile industry shops intermeshed throughout the market area's labyrinthine halls and alleys, but it's not far from Dongdaemun, a busy neighborhood with a lot of different influences and businesses operating within the local framework, and a lot of the business people who work nearby find themselves to the steaming halls for some food, even well into the late night. Not all of the stalls will stay open, but those that do will often be going late into the evening. I was able to pop over after a full day's shift to find many places still open for business. It's fascinating to see the change of pace as the market goes "after-hours" and caters less to the tourist populace than the locals.

Hong Kong Day 4- Ladies Market

My nights sleeping in Hong Kong were spent at the Harbour Hotel, which was in conveniently close walking distance to the Mongkok Ladies Market. Within moments of disembarking the hotel elevator and stepping foot into the street, I'd find myself surrounded by a cacophony of sensory overload. Practically anything you could possibly want or need could be found somewhere among the winding, crowded streets, whether it be a baby carriage, seafood so fresh it still wriggles upon the tables or inside bins, clothing, traditional Chinese medicinal herbs and poultices, live chickens, American candy, booze, movies, etc. Vendor's carts, tables, vehicles and pedestrians all crowd the streets, moving at times like a singular entity.  People buy, butcher and bargain together in the open air. 

Navigating the winding corridors, crowded with vendors and items for sale, could be confusing at times. I figured it was easiest to just go with the flow, for the most part, and take in the sights and sounds as I went. Occasionally a small bit of respite would be found in a quieter alleyway off to the side, where I could more clearly see the merchants going about their day unobstructed. Many of the vendors get an early start and will keep working late in the afternoon and even into the evening hours. The market is still bustling with vibrancy and crackling energy late into the night, when neon signs blink into life and cast their odd illuminations into the midst. 

I can only imagine that some of these vendors have been doing this their entire lives, starting in early childhood. Perhaps they were perched upon their grandpapa's lap as he rang up sales, or were given chores to keep them busy as their once clumsy childish hands grew more deft and capable with age.

There was truly so much to see, many of it unrecognisable to me. Oceanic creatures of all shapes and sizes commingled upon tables or in buckets and bins. Tablescapes were coloured with brilliant shades of a wide variety of different vegetables and herbs, fruits and trinkets. This market, this place, has tainted my views of American Chinatowns ever since. While I can still appreciate and enjoy a visit to San Francisco's Chinatown, or Oakland's, it's hard not to compare it to the experience of walking through these streets, taking in the sheer volume of things available...only these original markets, overflowing into the streets, can fully satisfy me now. 

More photos after the cut!

Hong Kong: Day 1

Hong Kong. 

Flying from Narita airport in Japan, Hong Kong is a 4-5 hour flight, plus additional time getting to their airport, which added about another 2-3 hours from my residence. 

I packed my things the night before and when it came time to head out, I hopped a taxi to a nearby hotel that was part of the Tokyo Disney Resort group. From there I'd jump aboard a bus to the airport, a peaceful jump onto the freeway that winds itself through small towns and rice fields. Arriving at the airport, the efficiency and businesslike manner of the Japanese is evident in rapidly cleared lines and a clean, lovely airport that has always felt surprisingly quiet and spacious in my visits. This would set a very stark tone against the congestion and visual chaos of Hong Kong, one of the most densely populated metropolitan areas in the entire globe. It's an entirely different world, even from it's neighbours. Such a visually lush city, there's no way I could even possibly come close to capturing every photo opportunity. I long to revisit the city to discover what new hidden gems, what chaos, what beauty I'll discover this time around. Here's a collection of sights from my first day of my first trip to this gorgeous little world. 

Japan: Urayasu Fresh Market 11-23

My favorite neighborhood fresh market was a brief 10 minute bike ride from my apartment, so I frequented it fairly often. There was always a bounty of beautiful fresh foods! 

Hopping atop my trusty mamachari or "mama's bike", the equivalent of a minivan on two wheels, I'd take advantage of the handy basket and stock up on reasonably priced produce while there.

There was also a small fish market with fresh sushi and prepared fish inside, along with a butcher wrapping packages of meats in cellophane. All your necessary staples were there (as long as you're comfortable with cooking and/or Japanese food), but sometimes unexpected items like grasshoppers or seasonal sweet cakes would appear on the shelves.

Their flowers were among some of the most reasonably priced I encountered; usually around ¥300-700 whereas the somewhat closer Yaoko supermarket's flowers were often twice the price! 

One option that makes shopping in Japan more affordable is to visit stores late in the day or evening, closer to closing time. Fresh things, like sushi, precut vegetables, cut flowers, etc. will get marked down and the later it is, the greater the discount. I've had many a satisfying sushi or sashimi centered dinner for under $10! Of course, the people at the fresh market were so pleasant and friendly, and the prices so reasonable to begin with, that I'd make a point to shop there on my days off as their hours didn't pan out on days I had work. 

Las Vegas Indoor Swapmeet

Do you have an Indoor Swapmeet in your area?

We have a couple of different swap meets here, but we've only gone to this one so far. 

Now that I know what an adventure they can be, we'll definitely have to make the time to check out the rest!

Oakland's Chinatown

After taking off from the Tenderloin and checking in at our AirBnB lodging, we headed over to Oakland's own little Chinatown! Our host Jackie recommended the area to us and we're happy to have taken her up on the suggestion. While fairly small it comprises a fairly well-rounded community center, with banks, restaurants, medical facilities and shops all nestled tightly together.

Seoul: Small Korean supermarket

Being the food nerd that I am, I seized upon the opportunity to geek out on a Korean supermarket.

I love seeing all the varieties, flavors, drinks and inventions available in different areas!

Some of the flavor combinations blow my mind and other products leave me pining for a viable proxy product stateside to satisfy my craving.

Seoul Trip: Day 3, Namdaemun market at night

     After leaving Namsan Seoul Tower by cable car, I walked through the neighborhood until I was able to find the market, which was mostly closed up for the evening due to the late hour. Not to be deterred, I took advantage of the somewhat solemn shadows and deserted corners for many photos. This is kind of a theme of mine. I love seeing cultural centers in their off-hours.

Warning! This post is going to be photo heavy!

This post focuses on photos of the market itself, if you're curious about what I ate while there read here!

Seoul Trip: Day 2, Noryangjin Fishmarket

After my morning at Gwangjang Market, I returned to Yim's Guesthouse to freshen up and charge my electronics. 

Once refreshed and rejuvenated, I ventured out to see Noryangjin Fishmarket and the surrounding neighborhood. I got there a wee-bit late so it wasn't at peak hours but it was still definitely bustling 

Head's up: This post is photo heavy!

Seoul Trip: Day 2, Gwangjang Market

Here comes another image-heavy photo post, so be wary ye of slow servers!