Korea: 추어탕 Chuoetang (aka Pond Loach soup)

Ever so often, I'll find myself in the awkward position of having restaurant staff asking me to reconsider my order, eyeing me warily to gauge if my spoken pronouncement were a bad joke of some kind. Sometimes this scenario plays out with the chef himself blustering out from behind the doors leading to the kitchen, encouraging (neigh, pleading) with me to reconsider the heat level I ordered and opt for something less radioactive. Then there are those times when I specifically seek out a dish that is, perhaps, a little less popular or well-received by those who've never sampled it before...Chuoetang is one of the dishes that falls into the latter category, a soup that's renowned for its beauty and healthy benefits but not much else. I was able to source the dish in Insadong, near Anguk station, which makes sense. Many of the restaurants that proliferate through the winding, cobble-stone streets and alleys of the area cater to traditional Korean cuisine in all its forms, from the elaborate spreads of Royal court cuisine all the way to humble street foods and mudfish (aka pond loach) soup. 

If the name mudfish doesn't immediately dredge up sensory conceptualizations of the taste, rest assured that the fish's flavor doesn't veer far from the name. Not only does the fish have a distinctly earthen flavor, but it's also not exactly the easiest or prettiest thing to eat. Inventive Koreans of yonder year solved this dilemma by opting to grind up the poor little butterfaces, which lends the soup a distinctive texture. This also takes care of most, though not all, of those microscopic little fish bones that can make eating fish meat such a chore. And guess what? Because you're devouring the fishes in all their entirety, you're getting a super-boost of different minerals, vitamins and other beauty-boosting goodness that you might otherwise miss out on. Like I said before, this soup is considered a super-food for your health and well-being, and all the collagen is especially good for your skin. There's something of an obsession abounding around functional foods in Japan and Korea, and if the condition of the typical woman's skin in those countries is any indicator they've figured something out, alright. The soup was alright, too- nothing to get terribly excited about flavorwise, perhaps, but totally edible and absolutely delectable if it means waking up to softer, healthier skin! 

Korea: Galbitang 갈비탕 and Ssamziegil snacks

Undoubtedly, one of the best things about living and working in Seoul is the ready accessibility of delicious, affordable food at any turn. Whether you're in need of a robust, hearty meal with a rainbow of banchan to whet your palate and satisfy your hunger, or simply an easy, light, quick snack to tide you over, you'll never have to go far to find it. The Fun Caricature location I spent a significant portion of my work days at in Seoul's historic arts and crafts district of Insadong, near Anguk station, was especially well-endowed in terms of delicious options- from food carts to sit down breweries, high or low end, it was all there. We could even get food delivered to us right at the location, fresh and steaming hot, should the need or desire arise (it did). Korean food delivery systems are among some of the best in the world, though America is desperately trying to catch up these days with Ubereats and Doordash and whatever other silly-named services have since come out offering to ferry your food directly to you to save you the hassle of going to get it. 

While I frequently opted for the cheap, quick snack from a vendor or the convenience stores, there was no denying the bounty of restaurants available to choose from near the caricature location. At first I was too anxious to go and try to fend for myself in a restaurant where the language is something I sorely struggle to comprehend, but once I started to pick up on reading Hangul (it's really a lot easier than you think it is) and could deduce the items on the menu it was a lot less intimidating. The meal pictured above, a delicious and warming bowl of beef rib soup (aka Galbitang) and ample banchan was reasonably priced, even for being in a nicer restaurant in a tourist-heavy area, and I thoroughly enjoyed it as a change of pace from the usual hard boiled eggs and mysterious sausage-shaped-fish-based-food. My coworkers would sometimes join me on these lunch outings, but this was a solo mission. It was peaceful. If there's a lesson here, my friends, it's to be brave and get out there and try. Believe it or not, most people are actually quite kind at heart, at least in my experience out in the world. 

And who knows, maybe you'll make friends with the sweet lady at the dongppang (poop bread) shop!

Korea: Further protests in Insadong

Time: Mid-December, 2016. 

Place: Seoul, South Korea- more specifically, in this particular instance, the Anguk-station adjacent Insadong neighborhood. 

What: the Park Geun-Hye protests. 

In case you missed what was one of the most outrageous and unusual political scandals to rock the world in 2016, that was the time-frame that the standing President of South Korea was uncovered to have deep and possibly traitorous ties with a cult figurehead. The extent of the findings and her collusion were far-reaching and incredible, the charges sounding more like a ridiculous television drama plotline than reality, with severe ramifications and implications for her Presidency. As a result of the shocking news hitting international headlines, scores of Korean citizens took to the streets to voice their disdain, and they did it in style. Despite the streets flooding with upset people and a variety of vehicles it remained largely peaceful, too, with harmonious chants rippling through the crowds, which ranged in age from toddler to senior citizen. The protests went on for quite some time, in different areas of the city, and they grew and grew as the news spread. As of early April, Park Geun-hye has been sentenced to 24 years of prison for her abuse of power, corruption, along with the long list of her other failings as the leader of her country. Ah, sweet justice. Her failures are especially disappointing given that her father was also President of South Korea in his time, though his time was fraught with its own unbelievable dramas like assassination and the beginnings of his daughter's cult connections. Naturally, the trial has had its own share of dramas and conflict surrounding it. 

As an American, that falls somewhere pretty safely within the definition of "Millenial", the protests in South Korea were especially interesting to me in this time of turmoil back home. With the Presidential election roiling on and the bitter back and forth of the primary political parties and their pundits, I was more than happy to be outside of the country for the chaos. While I definitely have some opinions about politics, I'm not much keen on them or being around the vehement battles during election years. I've been outside the US for the 2012 election and 2016 election and watched the results with surreal detachment (and utter disappointment in the more recent year's). Coincidence that is not. It's far more enjoyable to watch the fall of democracy from a semi-safe distance, after all. Being there, in the midst of the protests, yet safely removed from the political ramifications was its own surreal experience. I'm grateful for having been able to walk among the passionate people and appreciate the cause and concern from which they were coming from, though. I can't help but wish that protests here at home were half as well organized or respectfully sociable. Despite being composed of disgruntled individuals, the general tone of the protests felt more like a spirited pep-rally than a call to arms. 

Korea: Simple noms at work and home

Tornado potato!!! These are one of those foods that you see in all the travel blogs and videos espoused as a "must-try" street food... I had walked by a few places that sold it, but never stopped to buy one for myself. Well, lucky for me, one of my amazing coworkers at Fun Caricature grabbed one for me to try while they were out on their lunch break! I think they got the onion flavor? Whatever they chose, it was delicious! To make these pretty looking spirals of spud, they'll take a whole potato and cut it in one go before deep frying it to crispy carbtastic perfection and drenching it in flavored powder fresh out of the fryer. Delicious. It's a bit of a novelty- I mean, it's just a glorified potato chip / french fry hybrid, but you only live once so get you one if you ever get the chance. Live a little. We can always eat more kale tomorrow, right?

 

Of course, a girl can not live by potato alone... though some have tried... so I had to round out my night after getting home with some more carbs- ramen. I gussied it up with some form of crustacean I found at the market, along with soybean sprouts. It's not fancy, for sure, but it was an easy way to stretch my budget and get a little more bang for my buck. Kongnamul, or soybean sprouts, are extremely cheap and fairly healthy. I'd add a heaping amount to any bowl of ramen, so that the bowl was more bean sprouts than noodles! If I had it, I'd toss in an egg, too, and some green onions. Since I had the crustaceans/mollusks here, I opted to skip the egg this time. Not every day living abroad is going to be an epic adventure of hiking a mountain or eating unusual new foods that you picked live out of a tank. Sometimes you just want to go home from work, kick off your shoes, eat some junk food and watch a bad movie. It's okay. This is real life. 

 

Check back next time for more adventures!

🍜

XOXO,

NAU

Korea: Craft Fair at Ssamziegil in Insadong

Seoul is a vibrant city of roughly 10 million people and bustling with personality, passion, and variety. From the visor-wearing aunties in their colorful track suits lugging their carts full of goodies to the suited office workers trying not to fall asleep on the subway, the high-fashion youth with perfectly powdered visages and the burly workmen doing construction, it's as vivacious and nuanced a big city as one could hope or imagine with all the fashion, art and entertainment to boot. All the activity and bustling energy translate to a lot of creative energy, too, and there is no shortage of craftsmen and artisans in Seoul. Luckily, South Koreans are very proud of their culture AND their creations, so crafts fairs and historic traditional arts flourish and coincide in peace. 

Ssamziegil, a spiral walking path that works its way through four floors of artisan shops and little restaurants, was one of the several locations I would draw at while living in Korea. Our little shop for Fun Caricature was right on the ground floor near the entryway, a prime location for catching curious tourists on their way to grab some Dongppang (poop bread). Rest assured, there's no actual poo used in the bread! It's a griddle cake with sweet filling pressed into the shape of the poop emoji...a bit silly or juvenile, perhaps, but it's a hit with travelers who would form long lines waiting for a chance at their own selfie with the peculiar treat, even in the freezing cold! The building for Ssamzi (what we called it) is located in the heart of Insadong, in the Jongno-Gu area of Seoul proper. That was, without a doubt, one of my absolute favorite areas in Seoul as there are so many cultural important monuments and so many things of note to see within a readily accessible walking distance of each other. To get to Insadong proper, take exit 6 from Anguk station and you'll be right around the corner. Insadong, in particular, is rife with crafts and art, alongside the Kimchi museum. There are many places you can rent a Hanbok to wear and friendly guides proliferate in the area, eager to lend aid to a confused traveler. It was always a fun location to work at! 

The photos in this post are going to be from one particular day when a craft fair happened to pop up inside the open courtyard of Ssamziegil. I couldn't help but to be curious and poke my head over for a look when business at the booth was slow. Please enjoy this glimpse into what daily life was kind of like when I was working in Seoul! Plenty more photos below~

Seoul Trip: Day 4, exploring near Anguk station

Changdeokgung Palace.

A brief walk from Yim's house stood Changdeokgung palace, a vibrant landmark and beacon of hope during my stay; once I saw the palace in it's resplendent decorative colors and tiles looming into view, I knew I was either close to my home base or off on my way to another adventure. 

I had an appointment later in the afternoon, but had enough time to do a little exploring. Anguk station was the closest and I stayed relatively close for the morning in an effort to avoid tardiness. The area was quirky and fun. 

Seoul Trip: Day 3 Shenanigans at the chicken joint

Who parties hard?

So Ko! 

A.K.A. South Korea 

Home of many absolutely wonderful things like kimchi, K-pop, soju, and a whole assortment of other super awesome things. 

Awesome like these guys, at the fried chicken joint near Anguk station. 

Their boss got so toasted his underling graciously cradled his cranium in order to prevent him from taking a dive before grabbing him a taxi and sending him home safe. True teamwork. 

After returning to my guest house from the shenanigans at Namdaemun, I still had some energy to burn so I wandered to the neighborhood station and found a late night place that specialized in Korean fried chicken dishes, which I was curious about, so I popped in. Being a small joint, I quickly made a lot of new friends. ^_^;