Korea: Bangsan Wholesale Market

Bangsan market in Seoul is an excellent destination for any food enthusiast or amateur restauranteur! The market is close to Gwangjang/ Kwang Jang market but specializes in food related goods, like specialty pans, cookie cutters, take-out packages, and wholesale goods for a wide variety of culinary purposes and uses. After sampling gyerrangpang for the first time from a street cart food vendor, I was hooked on the moist little cakes with the creamy eggs on top. SO good! Of course, the cute little mini-loafs require specialized pans within which to bake them, otherwise you'd just be making egg muffins... I mean, essentially that is what you're doing, but the oblong shape makes them more like the kind you'd order steaming hot on a cold morning from the cart on the corner. Therefore, relying heavily on the value of nostalgia, I had justified the necessity of purchasing these specialty micro-mini loaf pans for the end goal of bringing them back to America to share the joys of gyerrangpang with Antho and anyone else I could foist them off on. Bangsan market was the place to go.

The narrow streets can get quite densely packed with cars and pedestrians vying for the same precious remainders of space. Be alert and try not to get run over if you decide to visit. This is a functioning wholesale market and many of the restaurants throughout the city and perhaps nearby regions, too, will venture here when they need supplies. This means a lot of harried businessmen trying to get what they need and go, with no need for gawking tourists blocking their path. I was able to survive my trip and after wandering around somewhat lost in the cornucopia of shops and alleyways between the buildings I even found what I was looking for, eventually. The shop owners I interacted with didn't speak a huge amount of English, and I don't blame them. Primarily they're doing business with locals day in and day out, so be polite and patient if you find yourself struggling with a linguistic challenge. 

Interestingly (to me, at least), some of the corridors I found myself turning down where surprisingly empty for the early afternoon of my visit. Perhaps the shops were closed early, or changing out inventory, or owners. Surely someone, somewhere, knows, but I do not. A bit of mystery is good for us, though, isn't it?

Plenty more photos below!

Korea: Noryangjin Old Fish market part two

Noryangjin Fish market, especially the old building, is one of my absolute favourite places in all of Seoul. Being someone who grew up in a desert, my exposure to seafood was limited to the tanks at our local markets and the occasional aquaponics set up. I remember finding a crawdad at Lake Mead once as a kid and being super excited about the "mud bug", much to the amusement of those around me. Suffice to say, exposure to aquatic life was extremely limited growing up... we might have the sporadic surf and turf specials at various local casinos when they were affordable or my dad had gambled enough on their premises to earn a "comped" meal (which is always considerably less money than was lost in the casino, unsurprisingly), or I'd find some shoreside creepy crawly while playing at the beach, but the desert doesn't really afford a lot of beach time without associated travel.  My time living in Japan gave me many more opportunities to sample various sea life I might not have otherwise been fortunate enough to find (like shirako and shirasu), and my fascination with all things slippery and seaborn still runs deep like the Mariana Trench. I can't help but be simultaneously fascinated and horrified by the beasts that lurk below, and entranced by the ways people have found delicacies and ways to uncrack and work with the mysteries within.

After all, sea level is going to be the highest elevation at which any of these creatures might possibly live, right? So they're generally going to be living at much lower elevations than our air-borne brothers. If, like me, you share a curiosity about the oceans and things that dwell therein, you too will find Noryangjin market a highly interesting experience. There's no shortage of variety available, with each vendor selling multiple species and sizes of assorted sea-creatures. There are shrimp as big (or bigger) than your hand, crabs that could take your face off, crustaceans in an incredible array of shells, slithering daebul (aka penis fish) who look like uncircumcised members who've liberated themselves from their hosts, whatever your flavour there are massive slabs of fresh glistening fish flesh abounding for you to take your pick from. Of course, if you don't like seafood, this will not be a destination that ranks high on your to-do list... but then, why are you here? Don't be scared, my friend. As scary and alien as some of these strange little things are, most are truly quite tasty when deftly handled by the restaurants nearby. That's right; if you find yourself too intimidated to try to cook up whatever curiosity you find, you can simply take your bagged up merchandise to one of the many restaurants just beyond the market doors. If you need guidance, don't fear. One of the staff members, such as this woman in the vest, will likely guide you to where you need to go. I wouldn't be surprised if there were deals between different vendors and restaurants, but I'm not complaining. I've always had a great meal when dining here! With such fresh seafood available it's really hard to go wrong. 

Many more photos below!

Japan: Daily grind 2012年10月

Clockwise from top left: Natto, mozuku (slippery vinegar seasoned seaweed), soy sauce, coffee with milk, mackerel sashimi with 2 umeboshi & shredded daikon, cooked white rice (from 711!) 

View from the bus window during my morning commute.

Flowers in front of Ikspiari during the walk to work from the bus stop.

Reading materials. The only books I haven't managed to read yet are Player Piano and Mr Rosewater by Vonnegut. I quite enjoyed The Grand Design and Cat's Cradle has long been a favorite of mine. I got The Science Delusion to help counterbalance the Dawkins, as both can be a bit dogmatic. Always best to gather as much information as you can before coming to any conclusions. 

"The Cat Returns" film Comics & Howl's Moving Castle art book.

Zaru soba with iwashi (sardines), umeboshi, mozuku and tare. 

Dessert sweet puffs and takoyaki from Gindako in Ikspiari.

Goofing off X3 We have exceptionally good balance or particularly flat heads…hm...

Touch screen vending machine with cute Halloween & fall themed animations that would float by from time to time until someone approached the machine.

Japan: What I ate & what was in my fridge 2012-10-12

From left to right, clockwise:

  

そばつゆ：soba tsuyu, soy sauce & dashi based dipping sauce,

ざるそば：zaru soba, cold soba noodles

めかぶ： mekabu, slimy seaweed salad 

たこさしみ：tako sashimi, cold fresh slice of lightly-parboiled octopus w/soy sauce & wasabi

つけもの：tsukemono, mixed vegetable pickles

This is what the interior of my fridge looked like… lots and lots of vegetables, sauces, juice, etc.

And for dinner; rare steak with tomato salad and toasty potatoes. 

What did you have today? :)