Welcome to Stanley, a relaxed little seaside village and shopping destination in Hong Kong. People stroll the streets with an easy stride and calm, unhurried stride. This is in stark contrast to the rushing, racing, crowded populous in Hong Kong proper, and provides a much needed respite from the bustle and business of the city. This being my last day in Hong Kong, I was in need of a bit of rest and relaxation. After hiking across Lamma islandclimbing to the Tian Tan Buddha peak, shopping in Tsim sha Tsui, and everything else, I needed a vacation from my vacation!
My time in Hong Kong was rapidly coming to an end! Alas. I truly enjoyed my time here, and this being my last full day in the area, I wanted to make the best of it. So, what does a food loving girl do in such a situation? Why, she has Second Breakfast, like a true Hobbit!! Despite my height, I feel a special kinship with the Hobbits...perhaps it's the hairs on my feet (TMI?), or their good-natured love of all things lovely about life (food, companionship, sleep, comfort!), they've always had a special place in my sordid little heart. For my first breakfast, I returned to the small noodle shop tucked away behind several vendors in the Ladies Market that I had visited on my second day.
After a brief bit of walking to help my noodles digest and take in the sights, I returned to the small steamer shop where I'd been assaulted by a stack of boxes on day 3. Luckily, this time through I escaped unboxed. It was on this visit that I realised a fondness for chicken (or duck) feet that remains with me to this day. While I've yet to convert Antho to the joys of gelatinously crunchy, chewy poultry feet, I still gladly eat them when given the opportunity. I also had the steamed dumplings shown above, with their slick, chewy skins and juicy fillings. Delicious.
After ensuring that my stomach was well and truly full, I began a journey towards Stanley, a town in Hong Kong that resides in the Southern District, east of Repulse Bay. To get there, I found a bus using the Discover Hong Kong app and made my way to the pick up point. I highly recommend using an app like Discover Hong Kong while visiting an unfamiliar city, as it provides insight and wisdom that your average tourist may not have. Taking the bus was extremely affordable and allowed an overland route to my destination with a view, which I greatly enjoyed.
The next step of my journey, once I climbed down from the mystery trail, took me towards Sok Kwu Wan (Rainbow Bay), the other small village on the island. On the way there, though, I stopped along several points of interest, including Lo So Shing beach, pictured above, which was surprisingly devoid of people. I passed the Kamikaze Caves, as well, a grim reminder of the small island's role during WWII. These caves provided a strategic hideaway for Kamikaze soldiers, who could use high speed boats in suicide missions against Allied shipping boats during the conflict. Luckily, the island is far more peaceful now with relaxed locals and happy tourists providing the majority of the foot traffic. While there are no cars on the island, I did see many surf boards, especially near LoSo beach, so I imagine it makes a popular surf spot during the appropriate seasons.
It's hard not to be distracted by the sheer beauty of the area. Vibrant flowers abound and the lush green foliage blankets most of the land. Between all that, the occasional building or beach looms around the corner or peaks out trepidatiously. Other structures stand strong and proud, painted in vibrant shades and holding strong against the elements.The villages are small, though, and not every structure is assiduously maintained. This contrast between vivid flowers and dilapidated buildings, stunning structures and sandy beaches, gives the small island a wealth of sights to discover.
As my hike grew to an end, my tired feet were eager for a rest and my tummy ready for a more substantial meal. Delicious things were in no short supply in the village! I opted for a fried cuttlefish, a fresh prawn (shrimp?), and a razor clam, all freshly scooped out of the tank they had inhabited with their unfortunate friends. The absolute freshness of the foods, eaten behind a plastic tarp serving as a wall/window offering views of the marina as the sea breeze gently wafted by, was perfection with a frosty brew. Friendly servers ensured my belly and my soul were satisfied by the day's endeavours, providing the cap to the evening needed before I darted off to catch one of the last ferries back to Hong Kong.
Lamma island is a short ferry ride from Hong Kong pier yet it feels like a completely different world. Once the ferry pulls into dock, you disembark to find a "parking lot" of bicycles awaiting their riders followed by the sight of a charming fishing village- my ferry arrived into Yung Shue Wan, or Banyan Tree Bay. Fresh seafood sits prominently, proudly, in front of the many eateries lining the path. There are actually two villages on the island, one at each end, so my goal was to hike across the length of the entire island to the next village of Sok Kwu Wan, or Rainbow Bay. The mood is markedly more relaxed, more languid, here.
Families walk hand in hand along the gravel path, marvelling at the seabirds and oceanside vistas, while local kids sword fight among the lush ferns. There are beaches where people splash about and make sand castles- one man was walking around with a loud speaker in his backpack playing upbeat music as he ambled about at the time of my visit. Vibrant tropical flowers creep and burst from unexpected corners, and the style of the homes follows in eclectic colourful suite. Boats and feet are the primary forms of motility among the locals as there are no cars on the island.
Given the bounty of exceptionally fresh sea creatures hanging around to tempt your taste buds, it was only a matter of time before I opted to stop and sample some. ;) After completing my hike seemed the apropos time for a full meal, as I didn't want to embark on a long hike with a heavy stomach. In Mongkok I had eaten a bowl of beef noodles prior to catching the train to Hong Kong station and walking to Central, or the pier, and this ensured my meal had time to settle. I did stop and sample some egg waffles, though, for a quick snack.
Midway through the hike I encountered a mysterious smirking stone, with arrows pointing to a barely visible path to the peak of a mountain. This offered me expansive views of the surrounding area in solitude, as I was the only soul brave enough to follow the trail at that moment. It was a wonderful moment in a truly wonderful locale. I could see raising a family or retiring here quite happily someday, if the fortunes allowed.
Waking refreshed and recharged, I was eager to explore another of the islands that encompassed Hong Kong after a quick breakfast of spicy beefy noodles at a small shop around the corner from my hotel. There are several, including Lantau island , Hong Kong island proper, Chek Lap Kok, Tsing Yi, Kau Sai Chau, Po Toi Islands and Cheung Chau, along with my destination for the day: Lamma island! This post will focus on the journey to Central, the pier. For much of my trip, I hadn't really spent a lot of time in downtown Hong Kong as it was quite crowded. This trip was little different, with groups of people congregating on the sidewalks and alcoves.
Despite my general reluctance to willingly put myself into extremely crowded situations, I knew there would be a peaceful retreat at the end of my journey so I soldiered forward and faced my anxieties. I could have taken a bus, but instead I opted to simply walk the entire way and in the end it was well worth it. The views of the city and gradual dissipation of the crowd as I approached Central set my mind and body at ease.
