Showing posts with label history. Show all posts
Showing posts with label history. Show all posts

Thursday, October 4, 2018

Korea: 부대찌개 Budae Jjigae, aka Army Base Stew



With October now firmly upon us (holy crap), it seems especially fitting to bring bubbling hot cauldrons of brightly colored potions to the blog! For any witchy-woman or magical-maiden in training, few things can bring comfort like the percolations of bubbles through your own personal little pot of goodness, stewed to perfection over the long, steamy hours. Korean stone pot dishes, called 돌솥 or dolsot, make this dream a reality, though not everything served in them need be toiled over for hours. The stoneware bowls allow you to cook your food in the same dish you serve it in, so long as you remember to watch your hands (they get hot) when it's time to move things from stovetop to slurping station. If, like me, you're not about to go out and load up on all the ingredients necessary to make budaejjigae, or Army Base Stew, don't worry! Whether you're in South Korea or somewhere Stateside, chances are you'll be able to find a restaurant offering what has become a prodigious comfort food for Koreans, ex-pats or even visitors. It's an odd dish for this when you break down its constituent parts- typically there's some form of spam or processed tubular meat stuff, and along with the familiar (to Korean palates) kimchi there's often the addition of sweet and savory baked beans to liven things up and add an unexpected texture to the medley. Other ingredients, familiar to Koreans but not so much to outsiders, make their appearance too- sweet and spicy chili paste in the form of gochujang often lends the familiar smokey depth and gentle heat, while tofu and hearty vegetables often join the pot for a hint of texture or color. It has a warming, soothing sweet and savory, sometimes fiery (depends on the cook and the variant you're trying) flavor that's both familiar and homey while being uniquely Korean- and there's a very good reason for this! The dish originated out of necessity when the Korean war had slowed and the slaughter began to recoil from the land, but many Koreans were still left in incredible poverty and unfortunately, starvation was not uncommon. A lot of native Koreans did what they had to in order to survive, whether it was black market trading for American food rations from the soldiers or worse... the presence of many American soldiers lingered on after the war, meaning that their food rations often stuck around, too. Hence, we find the introduction of foreign foods (in the form of hot dogs, spam, baked beans and/or slices of processed cheese) into a traditional Korean means of cooking- 찌개, chigae. It's a bit of a kitchen sink food stuff, with ingredients from both Korea and America,  and it's good, guys. 


It's really good!



It was difficult to dine out and not be subjected to news reports on the drama hitting the nation, what with the president being found to have ties to a cult and all. Crazy stuff. But from here out, it's just good old fashioned food porn, guys. Enjoy!

Friday, April 6, 2018

Korea: Bukchon Hanok village part one



If you want to experience the beauty of an earlier time in Seoul's history, Bukchon Hanok Village is a great spot to do so! The buildings lining the streets of this lovely little enclave are meticulously and lovingly preserved over the decades. The style of buildings dates back all the way to the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1897) and they're absolutely stunning! It's an easily accessible area, too, a short walk from Anguk station. The streets themselves can be quite steep, so be prepared for a bit of a hike, but it's well worth it. There are many shops, restaurants, museums and cultural centers throughout the area and it would be a shame to miss out on any. I spent several hours walking up and down the hills, checking out all the buildings and marveling at the intersection of modern and historic. While many of the buildings have been converted for public use, I believe some are still privately owned. I touched the edge of this area on my first visit to Seoul, but didn't venture too far in. I didn't know what I was missing then, but I'm glad I made the time to go while living there!

This area is close to SO MANY different areas that are worth checking out while in Seoul! There's Insadong for the arts and crafts, Gyeongbokgung Palace, Changdeokgung Palace, and Jongmyo shrine immediately nearby but if you're willing to walk a little bit you're also quite close to Gwangjang and Dongdaemun markets. The trains and busses in Seoul are also exceptionally handy in getting around, so while you are certainly welcome to hop in a taxi it's not really necessary (in my humble opinion, but Antho and I did walk across San Francisco once). I found Seoul to be an excellent city for taking in via walking, even when I found my way into some dark and shuttered corners. There's a lot of beauty in Seoul and sometimes it's best to just slow it down and take it in by walking, and Bukchon Hanok Village is an especially ideal locale for this. Everyone I encountered was pleasant and respectful, even the random kitty cat who forced his affections on me (despite my severe allergy, I didn't protest it). 

There are plenty of places to grab a cool, refreshing beverage while here, too, in case you visit during the warmer months. Towards the end of my walk I even spotted a couple of bars and things, but that's as I got closer to the main roads where modern Seoul resumes it's ppari-ppari pace. I highly recommend taking an afternoon to pound the streets... there are even especially marked locations for ideal Instagram photos!