In the city of Las Vegas, the only predictable constant seems to be perpetual change itself. Celebrity chefs rise to the pinnacle of their careers and open their namesake restaurants along the glistening Las Vegas Strip, where they either rise to become a towering success or crumble into mediocrity. While there may not be as much drama surrounding the restaurant reviews, openings, and closings, as in say, New York City, there's still plenty of drama to take in. Take, for example, the recently opened Hell's Kitchen restaurant, which rumor claims was booked up to capacity within moments of opening for business, not to mention the show's own egregiously theatrical turns on the television. You can find everyone from Guy Fieri to Nobu, Bobby Flay to Wolfgang Puck... a veritable who's who of famous cheffing, and even Anthony Bourdain stopped to sip the brewskies at the Huntridge Tavern on his own show. The Strip itself, the hub of Las Vegas's goings-on, is in a perpetual state of flux, as namesake casinos are imploded and replaced, new structures seek to dominate the skyline and old try to cling to relevancy with new thrill rides and attractions. This endless churning of change makes it all the more satisfying and surprising when a small restaurant, without any big names attached, manages to hold on for a long haul. Ichiza is one of these small joints, an unassuming little restaurant tucked into the second story of a Chinatown shopping center, that has been a staple of my restaurant outings for the better part of the last decade. I don't know when they opened, nor do I consider it especially relevant... The important thing here is that Ichiza is good, and their longevity is a testament to this fact.
While it is entirely possible to spend a couple Benjamins at dinner here, it's not really a high-end restaurant. If you're looking more for luxury, try Raku on the opposite side of the road. Both restaurants share a similar approach; delicious small plates of Japanese food, high in quality and small in portion. Raku, however, is where you go if you want your salt to be laced with meticulously sourced and extracted green tea leaves and the same approach is applied to each individual ingredient and its preparation, whereas Ichiza is the place to go for a pitcher of Sapporo and some reliably good grub from yakitori skewers to ramen. It's a build your own adventure in meal form, whether you stick to the small paper menus they provide or wander the restaurant to select from the additional "secret" menu that winds through the entire space. Don't miss their daily specials, where some of the best dishes reside! The grilled salmon belly or collar is always a hit, but they can sell out fast. We managed to secure the last grilled salmon collar on this outing, a cut that's basically the bacon of the fish it's succulent flesh so studded with layers of unctuous fat and juice you almost wouldn't believe it's a fish. Our neighbors at the bar tried to order it as well, prior to our's being served and were disappointed then audibly jealous and annoyed when it arrived. Sorry fellas, them's the breaks.
Whatever you decide to order, know that it's going to be delicious. We were celebrating my birthday with this meal, and between the two of us our bill ran about $100, which isn't terrible, all things considered. I'm always happy when I eat here, whether it's the authentic izakaya vibe bringing on the nostalgia from my time living in Japan or the delicious food filling my belly, I love Ichiza!
